First visit to sunset deck. This was particularly interesting at the deck was built on the edge of a very large lake with excellent views of the surrounding landscape. However you can see from the pictures below that the water has almost dried up completely. There is a very small puddle of water in the center of what should be the lake. The pictures don’t show the waterside chalets - these were built to rent out to tourists but, in typically African style, they started building a whole series of them and none were finished because they ran out of money. There are a lot of expensive looking half properties, or derelict buildings around the site. In the extreme weather conditions we have here buildings need constant upkeep, and this is not always possible due to lack of finances and staff. A new set of volunteer buildings are being built at the moment - photos to follow - and it is hoped these will attract more volunteers who come to stay for a short or longer time and work here.
View from Sunset Deck with tiny puddle of water instead of the huge lake it should be |
Beautiful sunset views |
They also work with local villagers. There are 12 main villages and 12 village chiefs. Each village is broken down into a number of smaller villages. Altogether there are about 70,000 people living around the reserve. Most of the villagers have lived in this area and around the reserve for decades, through previous incarnations as a cattle ranch and hunting reserve. Naturally they see it as ‘their’ territory, although now that it is now a conservation reserve this is no longer true for practical purposes. While the villagers all need wood 3 times a day to cook their food, and the best place for them to find wood is in the reserve, they know it is no longer legal for them to collect it here. They know it is illegal for them to enter the premises without a written warrant, or to remove anything from the grounds, but of course they have a sense of entitlement and continue to do so. They also come to collect grasses to thatch their roofs or to sell. They also kill whatever animals they find, and collect caterpillars, crickets and other small insects to eat. This causes tension between our staff and the villagers.
SCOUTS
There are 24 full time scouts/guards here who patrol the property 24/7 against poachers. Again this can be difficult when the poachers are related to the scouts. Also, Malawi is a very poor country and some of these villagers are literally starving, so it can be very difficult to refuse them the things they feel they need and are entitled to have. As it stands poachers are encountered on average twice a day and the same at night. The Police are always involved if the intruder has killed any animals or insects or cut down any trees. If they have simply picked up fallen wood they receive a caution. Village chiefs are also called to come and collect those who have been caught poaching, so that they can also give the poachers an explanation as to why they can not come on to the property, and caution them not to do so again.
The food situation is getting worse here, and again when you look at the pictures of sunset deck posted above you can see why. Insufficient rain during the rainy season means crops die, the drought leading to famine.. Ideally Jerome, Annelies and the villagers all need to have a shared vision for the reserve, but I don't see that happening for a very long time. Maslow's hierarchy of needs explains why - the Malawi villagers are very poor, and literally are working each day for food for that day - so right on level 1 of Maslow's hierarchy. Jerome and Annelies, while by no means being rich, have some financial security, so have reliable access to food, water, education, accommodation, jobs, a sense of belonging and so on. They are working at the level of self actualisation. The villagers need wood to cook with 3 times a day, animals to eat, grass to sell at market - they will never be able to work together with Jerome and Annelies on the goal of conservation until their own basic needs are reliably met. Last week 5% of the reserve burnt down in a bush fire; at the same time a group of 30 women climbed through the fences to collect firewood. Coincidence?
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